Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Simplicity 1942 4102 Shy Sister of the Chicken Dress

I did the fitting on Simplicity 4102 (the Chicken Dress) in 2011 and it works pretty well, so . . . away we go.  I went home last night and cut most of the bodice pieces.


The fabric is a slate-blue (darker in real life) VIP mini print.  The pattern is pink and maroon so I'm using maroon rick-rack trim and buttons.


Badly-drawn concept mock-up:


I kind of hope, too, that I can use this to help me re-fit New York 1490, since it was such a mess.  This has a similarly relaxed bodice fit.

Monday, June 29, 2015

To-Do list

okay, now I'm just keeping loose notes.  I have no idea in what order, or if at all, I'll get these done.

1) January: Hollywood 1944 1411 Christmas dress (done)
2) February: DuBarry 1943 5612Valentine's princess dress (done)
3) March: DuBarry 1944 5986 St. Patrick's Day dress (done)
4) April: Marian Martin 1942 9928 Telephone Girl/Easter-ish (done)
5) May: Butterick 1983 4948 Belle France drop-waist dress in the Moda April Showers umbrella fabric. (done)
6) May, part II: New York 1950's 1490 brown acorn dress (fail!)
7) May, part III: McCall's 1975 4663 dress with square yoke (done).
8) June: Simplicity 1976 7627 Mother of Tova peasant blouse
9) June, part II: Simplicity 1971 9778 Mother Hubbard dress (done).
10) July: 
Simplicity 4102 (1942) slate blue calico and maroon dress (Chicken Dress sister). 
11) August: DuBarry 1945 6030 two-piece dress.
12) September:
Hollywood 1944 1411 brown calico
13) October:  Hollywood 1944 1411 dark gray with lime
14) November: Simplicity 1943 4718 yellow Keepsake Calico Richloom Faine pinks-print dress
15) December: Simplicity 1943 4718 brown DS Quilts housedress

If time permits:
16) Butterick 1983 4948 skeleton dress (done)
17) New York 1950's 1490 brown acorn dress and maybe sundress, time permitting.
18) Simplicity 1975 7303 blouse with shaped yoke.

Simplicity 1971 9778 Part IV

Done!

It looks . . . pretty much the way you'd expect.


My only real beef is that the original collar is just a straight band.  I should have thought to contour it a little so it would look less like a piece of pipe around my neck.  Not a big deal, though.


Friday, June 26, 2015

Simplicity 1971 9778 Part III

Buttons!  At last!  They look better in real life--the lighting made them look lighter than they are.  I still need to find a belt, but at least I can finish the dress itself this weekend.


Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Simplicity 1971 9778 Part II

The buttons are supposed to be here in the mail today or tomorrow, and then it will be finished.  I still haven't found a suitable belt, though.

The yoke and short sleeves:


Epic pattern match made in the flounce, entirely by accident.  If I had tried to do this on purpose it would never have come out this well:


Done except for the buttons and buttonholes.  Floor-length.  (I did try it on.  It looks insanely long here.)


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Simplicity posted some new patterns the other day.  There is a 1950's dress for a little girl and a really nice set for 18-inch dolls from Keepers Dolly Duds.

Of course, the one I like is 1080.  I'm definitely in a slubby clothes mood these days.


And mixing calicos.  OMG.  So many possibilities.

The line drawing.  I think if you had to do a FBA on this you'd have to cut the top off, alter, and reattach it.  But it's cute.


Appears to be a daughter of McCall's 4570 (1975):



and:


Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Simplicity 1971 9778 Part II

No new pix, but I have all the hand finishing done on the side seams and pockets.  I made the flounce last night but haven't attached it yet.  Then I just have to do the sleeves, which shouldn't be too bad since they're to be gathered in, not fitted to the armscye, the buttons, and the buttonholes.  I'm still debating the buttons: I have some that I like but only three, and I need four fasteners for the front yoke.  I could either go look for a set of four maroon buttons or use a hook and bar on the band collar.

Tropical Storm Bill hit Monday night and my office closed yesterday.  It ended up being much ado about very little for most of Houston--the worst of it was to the west of us.  I was up early, though, and spent the day running errands and cooking.  We got some good rain but not enough to cause us any problems.

Monday, June 15, 2015

Simplicity 1971 9778 Part I

I got distracted.

I don't know what happened.  I don't have an immediate need/use/anyplace to wear this dress, and I didn't think I have enough yardage (I do, but I didn't know that when I started cutting), and it wasn't on the list of things to sew any time soon, but . . . it just happened.


My copy has some miles under its belt.  It looked as though the original owner made the mini--the pattern wasn't cut off at that length but the extra tissue around it was left intact on the lower part.


Basically a nightgown by any other name.
 

The fabric is less antifreeze-green in real life, but you get the idea:


It was supposed to have facings but I lined the yoke in some scrap from another project.


I hate back zippers so I changed the front to a button-up yoke (creating an overlap down the middle).  I might need different buttons.  These are just right but it really needs four.  I'm not sure if the band collar really should have one or if I should just put in a bar and hook.


 The idea.  Long dress, short sleeves.


It's just two big panels on the fold:


Sewing the sweetheart yoke.  The point in the middle was tricky.


But it worked.   I should have basted but I didn't, but got away with it.


Soft rayon seam binding.


I sewed up the side seams and put pockets in last night.  This pattern is super fast and easy since it has no real fitting issues.

Monday, June 8, 2015

Simplicity 7627 (1976) peasant blouse Part II

Ugh.

I've had allergies or something going on and basically haven't felt that great for the past month.  I'm going back to the doctor tomorrow.  I'm sure by then the complaint in question will have miraculously resolved itself and I'll look like a total hypochondriac.  Meanwhile, I didn't sleep well last night because the house was too hot, and I think I managed to give myself a Benadryl hangover. I also ate an unmentionable amount of sugar and salt this weekend--my eyes were almost comically puffy this morning--and that definitely didn't help.  I feel like death warmed over this morning.

I'm this far on the blouse.  Pity the fabric is so awful because the stripe effect is nice.  Maybe I'll make another one out of actual cotton once I get the fit figured out.


Monday, June 1, 2015

To-do list 2015 June 1

Recalibrating . . . 
So, the grand failure of New York 1490 seems to have derailed my list.   Furthermore, I can't find Simplicity 4718.  I'm in the process of putting my patterns in folders and filing them properly, so I hope I find it, but I have a bad feeling I set it aside somewhere to use and now can't remember where it is.  I'd rather not buy another copy but I will if I have to to get work done.
I have several other patterns, though, that I've already fitted and from which I could make usable items.  
1) January: Hollywood 1944 1411 Christmas dress (done)
2) February: DuBarry 1943 5612Valentine's princess dress (done)
3) March: DuBarry 1944 5986 St. Patrick's Day dress (done)
4) April: Marian Martin 1942 9928 Telephone Girl/Easter-ish (done)
5) May: Butterick 1983 4948 Belle France drop-waist dress in the Moda April Showers umbrella fabric. (done)
6) May, part II: New York 1950's 1490 brown acorn dress (fail!)
7) June: Simplicity 1976 7627 Mother of Tova peasant blouse
8) July: 
Simplicity 4102 (1942) slate blue calico and maroon dress (Chicken Dress sister). 
9) August: DuBarry 1945 6030 two-piece dress.
10) September:
Hollywood 1944 1411 brown calico
11) October:  Hollywood 1944 1411 dark gray with lime
12) November: Simplicity 1943 4718 yellow Keepsake Calico Richloom Faine pinks-print dress
13) December: Simplicity 1943 4718 brown DS Quilts housedress

If time permits:
14) Butterick 1983 4948 skeleton dress (done)
15) New York 1950's 1490 brown acorn dress and maybe sundress, time permitting.
16) Simplicity 1975 7303 blouse with shaped yoke.

Simplicity 7627 (1976) peasant blouse Part I

I've gotten totally distracted.

A friend of mine and I got into a discussion awhile back about the Wiksten Tova shirt/dress pattern.  Mostly about how 80% of them need FBA's.  But, anyway . . . I have Simplicity 7627 (1976), which is pretty much the same idea:


And I figured I'd wing it.  This is my size so I don't even need to do a lot of altering (in theory).  I measured and then added 1 1/2 inches across the back, with shoulder darts to take it up again at the shoulder seams.

This is a I-hope-it's-wearable muslin so I used some old (it's 35 inches wide, so it's no newer than early 1970's) cotton-but-mostly-poly "chambray" stripe that I got from my great-aunt Marian's stuff after my great-uncle passed away.


I wish this were cotton so it would be a nice texture, but it's not.  Oh, well.  It was free.  Destashing and all.

The stripe doesn't have a symmetrical repeat so I had to seam down the middles of both the back and the front:


and:


 . . . which will make it even stiffer and weirder.  But whatever.  If it even sort-of works I have other, softer, nicer fabric to use.

I was in a textile frenzy this weekend.   I probably sacrificed a bunch of old T-shirts to an experiment.   It turns out that De-Solv-It (an orange oil solvent/cleaner) does take deodorant build-up out of fabric, but then you're left with the problem of getting the orange oil out.  It's sort of the Caddyshack gopher-hunting approach.  So . . . yeah, it "worked" but I don't recommend it.

Anyway, then I threw 2 1/2 yards of muslin in the washer with one box of Rit Tangerine and one bottle of Rit Scarlet.  This gives you a bright papaya red:


I'll try that next if this pattern fits at all.


Wednesday, May 27, 2015

McCall's 4663 (1975) yoked peasant dress Part III

Finished. 



I stayed home yesterday because my route to work was under water.  We're having issues with one of the drains in the yard again.  One works, but the other is either clogged somewhere in the pipe or the drain box needs work again.  Sigh.

I was tired and feeling distracted so I started on my dirndl skirt backlog.  I need to get some heavier interfacing for waistbands but at least I can start by cutting and sewing up to that point.

Friday, May 22, 2015

McCall's 4663 (1975) yoked peasant dress Part II

Attached the yoke last night.  Need to finish it today.  Not much to see here, folks.

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

McCall's 4663 (1975) yoked peasant dress

I got distracted by my pattern collection yesterday.

I've had 4663 for awhile.  I'm not sure when/why I bought it; I'm sure it was really cheap but it's not necessarily the kind of pattern that works particularly well for me.


And:


I'm making the dress.  It's a lot longer than they make it look.  I haven't decided yet how long it will actually be.  I originally planned to use a mid-length pattern with a ruffle around the bottom but I couldn't find the pattern.  This one is similar.  But I think I'm still shooting for mid-length.  I like the idea of long but maybe not with this print.


Yup.

Red-orange and brown bandana print.  It's cotton, not cotton-polyester, amazingly enough.  It's not that faded in real life; this isn't a good picture.

My pattern is a bust 36.  I left the back yoke the same width since I always have to add width, anyway, and reduced the overall width of the front yoke, but then did a makeshift FBA but spreading a small wedge from the shoulder down (Photoshop-enhanced):


The yoke.  This shows the fabric better.


I mean to get more done but the cat was awful and then fell asleep in my lap.

Thursday, May 14, 2015

To-do list 2015 May 14

2015 dress projects.  I need a success so I'm going to rearrange things, even if it means stuff is out of season.  Whatever.  It's always warm here.  I've used 4718 before and I have two dresses lined up for it.

1) January: Hollywood 1944 1411 Christmas dress (done)
2) February: DuBarry 1943 5612Valentine's princess dress (done)
3) March: DuBarry 1944 5986 St. Patrick's Day dress (done)
4) April: Marian Martin 1942 9928 Telephone Girl/Easter-ish (done)
5) May: Butterick 1983 4948 Belle France drop-waist dress in the Moda April Showers umbrella fabric. (done)
6) June: New York 1950's 1490 brown acorn dress (fail!)
7) July:  Simplicity 1943 4718 yellow Keepsake Calico Richloom Faine pinks-print dress
8) August: Simplicity 1943 4718 brown DS Quilts housedress
9) September: DuBarry 1945 6030 two-piece dress.
10) October:  New York 1950's 1490 brown acorn dress and maybe sundress, time permitting.
11) November: Advance 1940? 9621 cayenne-red utility dress 
12) December: McCall's 2004 M4548 undecided which version 

If time permits:
13) Butterick 1983 4948 skeleton dress (done)
14) Simplicity 4102 (1942) slate blue calico and maroon dress (Chicken Dress sister).

New York 1950s 1490 Two-Fer, Part VIII

Fail.

I should have known better.  Bodice is too big, hips are super tight.  I should have known this since the skirt didn't have darts or a lot of shaping.  Sigh.  I managed to order more fabric--on clearance; the last of it--and I can salvage parts from the dress, but it needs a lot of help.

I need to learn to fit patterns by sloper.  Or something.  I need some new methods.

This is the pattern layout with the skirt pieces.  Notice how the sweep of the skirt is almost entirely at the bottom side, and the center back seam is almost straight.  There are no waist darts.  This cut assumes that your backside is mostly flat.  That's the case for many women but definitely not for me.


I think I probably need to make the skirt more like this:


So, apparently, now that I go back and look, I own at least ten other patterns of a similar age that have four-piece skirts I could borrow for this. 

All of them have pieces that look more or less like this (Butterick 7053, 1954):


 . . . which sort of leads me to suspect a major design and/or drafting fail on somebody's part at New York patterns.

Monday, May 11, 2015

New York 1950s 1490 Two-Fer, Part VII

I ran a zillion errands on Saturday and then went to bed early because I was exhausted.  

Sunday was Mother's Day and we went to Galveston to look for birds.  It was a pretty good day for birds: Blue-winged teal, a bunch of tricolored herons, little blue heron, godwit, dunlin, great egrets and great blue herons, night herons, and the usual bevy of gulls and plovers.

I didn't get a lot done last night but I did get the pockets applied and the skirt attached:


I think I'm going to have to take a side trip and make a better petticoat for these 1950's dresses and skirts.

Tuesday, May 5, 2015

To-do list 2015-05-05

2015 dress projects:

1) January: Hollywood 1944 1411 Christmas dress (done)
2) February: DuBarry 1943 5612Valentine's princess dress (done)
3) March: DuBarry 1944 5986 St. Patrick's Day dress (done)
4) April: Marian Martin 1942 9928 Telephone Girl/Easter-ish (done)
5) May: Butterick 1983 4948 Belle France drop-waist dress in the Moda April Showers umbrella fabric. (done)
6) June: New York 1950's 1490 brown acorn dress (in progress)
7) July: New York 1950's 1490 sundress
8) August: DuBarry 1945 6030 two-piece dress.
9) September: Simplicity 1943 4718 yellow Keepsake Calico Richloom Faine pinks-print dress

10) October: Simplicity 1943 4718 brown DS Quilts housedress
11) November: Advance 1940? 9621 cayenne-red utility dress 
12) December: McCall's 2004 M4548 undecided which version 

If time permits:
13) Butterick 1983 4948 skeleton dress (done)
14) Simplicity 4102 (1942) slate blue calico and maroon dress (Chicken Dress sister).

Monday, May 4, 2015

New York 1950s 1490 Two-Fer, Part VI: Most of bodice

I probably overdid the fitting on this, but whatever. 


I haven't resized the skirt yet, but the bodice is almost done; I just need to finish the armscyes and do the buttons and buttonholes.

This is a weird pattern--the housedress version is very blousy, but then they expect you to use the same pieces for the sundress, and I don't see how that can work all that well.  Yes, the gathered parts would line up with the straps, which are very wide (so it's more like a sleeveless dress than a regular sundress) but I had to take a lot of width out under the arms and up the back, and I can't see a sleeveless dress looking all that great with so much design ease. 

Thursday, April 30, 2015

Monday, April 27, 2015

Butterick 1983 4948 skeleton dress Part II

I've been busy so this is taking way longer than it should.  I thought I didn't have enough lace so I ordered more, but then it turns out I do so . . . 

Skirt:


That is all.

I spent most of Saturday hand-sewing the seams on my car cover.  The fabric is still good but the stitching is pulling out and it's too heavy to run through the machine.  Not fun.  Productive, I guess.