Thursday, February 26, 2015

DuBarry 1944 5986 St. Patrick's Day dress part V

5986 is missing its back bodice piece.  When I did the test before, I borrowed the back from DuBarry 2477b (1940), which looked similar.  At least, the patterns are the same company, similar years, and are both plain backs with ordinary waist darts and no distinctive style elements.  It worked, but I seem to have misplaced the traced piece I used (2477 needed to be graded down a size).

So . . . new copy knocked out over lunch yesterday.  I did more this time--the lower half is graded down.  The upper half, to which I would have had to add width, anyway, was left alone but with a shoulder dart placed to make the shoulder seam match the front.  And I added an inch of length.  I thought about grafting the neck dart into the shoulder dart.  I might do that yet but I don't think it's a big deal.


I need to run up another test and then make clean copies for both patterns.

Monday, February 23, 2015

DuBarry 1944 5986 St. Patrick's Day dress part IV

So it appears I already graded the thing up and added the extra length to the bodice front.  I just have to alter the bodice back and then I can try it again.  Woo hoo!

Simplicity 1981 5330 apron adaptation Part II

I could have set the pockets further out to the sides, but I'm not going to reposition them now.


I don't think it really needs ties.  I might change the pattern so that hte back halves overlap a bit and stay closed more on their own,  but they work pretty well.  


Saturday, February 21, 2015

Simplicity 1981 5330 apron adaptation

I've been working most of the day on the apron adaptation of Simplicity 5330, the 1981 yoked nightgown pattern I made last year.  I have a good apron but I made it from a pattern I borrowed from Mom, who is quite a bit taller than I am, and it's too big.




I took the extra width out of the front and back (so they're not gathered into the yoke) and cut the neck and armscyes wider.  



The back is open, and the edges are bound.  The rounded corners are easier to bind.

It just pulls over my head.  No fasteners.



I got the wrong binding so I lost some time this evening making a trip to Joann's (OMG, Joann's on a Saturday!) but I just have pockets and ties left to do tomorrow.

Friday, February 20, 2015

To-do list, 2015-02-20

To-do, miscellaneous:
1) Simplicity 1981 5330 apron adaptation (done)

2) Punched-tin lantern #2
3) Wrap and mail super-late Christmas gift
 
2015 dress projects:

1) January: Hollywood 1944 1411 Christmas dress (done)
2) February: DuBarry 1943 5612Valentine's princess dress (done)
3) March: DuBarry 1944 5986 St. Patrick's Day dress
4) April: Marian Martin 1942 9928 Telephone Girl/Easter-ish
5) May: Butterick 1983 4948 Belle France drop-waist dress in the Moda umbrella fabric.
6) June: New York 1950's 1490 brown acorn dress
7) July: New York 1950's 1490 sundress
8) August: DuBarry 1945 6030 two-piece dress.
9) September: Simplicity 1943 4718 yellow Keepsake Calico Richloom Faine pinks-print dress

10) October: Simplicity 1943 4718 brown DS Quilts housedress

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Doll's Cajun Mardi Gras costume

Didn't take long once I got started, even though I had to do a pattern from scratch.  I need to tweak the blouse pattern around the shoulders and neck, but it worked well enough this time.  These aren't meant to be fitted.  And the pants worked beautifully the first time out.


Mardi Gras is really a guy thing, but I don't have a boy doll and . . . why not?  The needlepoint masks are a modern thing, apparently pretty specific to Tee Mamou.

Saturday, February 14, 2015

To-do countdown

Pillowcases:
1) Volkswagen camper (2) (done)
2) 1970 GTO flannel (done)
3) Cowboy boots (2) (done)
4) Retro headphones flannel (done)
5) French bulldogs (done)

To-do, miscellaneous:
1) Tablecloth: Red milk-cap print (done)
2) Tablecloth: Hallowe'en print, and then the scraps go in the box for the black quilt. (done)
3) Mardi Gras costume for Jeannie the doll (done)
4) Simplicity 5330 apron adaptation

5) Punched-tin lantern (done)

2015 dress projects:
1) January: Hollywood 1944 1411 Christmas dress (done)
2) February: DuBarry 1943 5612Valentine's princess dress (done)
3) March: DuBarry 1944 5986 St. Patrick's Day dress
4) April: Marian Martin 1942 9928 Telephone Girl/Easter-ish
5) May: Butterick 1983 4948 Belle France drop-waist dress in the Moda umbrella fabric.
6) June: Pick up New York 1950's 1490 again.
7) July: New York 1950's 1490 sundress
8) August: DuBarry 1945 6030 two-piece dress.
9) September: Simplicity 1943 4718 brown DS Quilts housedress

Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Triangular doll shawl Part I

Because I so needed another unfinished project!

This is the same idea as the big triangular shawl but done in sock yarn on US1 needles for Jeannie, my American Girl Hopscotch Hill "Gwen" doll.





Computer mouse for scale.  I'd say this is about 15% done, though.  Things go quickly when they're small.  Nevertheless, this is why I could never do crafts for a living: If I were a faster knitter who didn't have tendonitis in her left hand, I could maybe make two of these in a long day.  That means I'd have to charge about $150 each to make a real go of it.  Right.

Monday, February 2, 2015

DuBarry 5612 (1943) Valentine Dress: Part V

Going together like a dream so far.  I know it's going to take me a couple of evenings to get the sleeves fixed--they show smooth sleeve caps in the picture and we all know that never happens.

I put the placket in the back of the neck:


 . . . and the facing with lace trim around the neck.

I used some wide commercial eyelet that somebody gave me.  I started out by sewing it to the facing, with the ends tucked into the seam so there wouldn't be any raw edges:


 . . . all the way around . . . 


 . . . this preserved the ruffles.  Then I took the binding off of the eyelet to reduce bulk under the facing's edge . . . 


 . . . and topstitched it:


Thursday, January 29, 2015

Billie Burke and Past Patterns 7986

Somebody posted this picture (please follow the link; Shorpy asks that we link rather than grabbing pictures.  I'll comply even if somebody else didn't) on a 1920's Facebook page last night.  It's not from the 1920's, but whatever.  

I thought the girl looked familiar--it's Billie Burke, the silent film and stage actress.  Or Glinda the Good Witch from The Wizard of Oz.  I haven't found any information online about her ever having been a nurse so I assume this is a promotional shot for one of her stage roles (she didn't make any films between 1916 and 1920).

I thought the dress looked familiar, too--it's pretty much Past Patterns 7986 (again, please follow the link. The image isn't mine).  This dress seems to be somewhere on the progression between full-cover apron and housedress.  I can't say it was ever really used as a nurse's uniform but it's at least plausible (the cuffs and probably the collar should have been removable). 

DuBarry 5612 (1943) Valentine Dress: Part IV

Listening: 1960's mix.

Okay, so . . . to recap.  Here is the dress:

 . . . and the fabric:


. . . so, with eyelet trim, it should look a bit like this (in a highly idealized world, I mean):


(That's my cat's food prescription in my hand, by the way, not a Valentine.  Because . . . ha, ha, ha!)

I even have awesome shoes to wear with it:


Rampage white eyelet platform heels.  I got these by accident.  I ordered some shoes from a sketchy place on eBay and they sent these by mistake.  I emailed to make sure I had the correct return address and they said don't bother, they were on last-call clearance, anyway, and they didn't even have the inventory information for them.  And then they sent the shoes I'd ordered, too.

I did some pattern alterations and a test muslin last year and for once in my life I remembered something correctly--it did fit pretty well:


I have a low bust.  You know who else had a low bust?  Bette Davis.  I'm in awesome company.  I learned that from a biography of Edith Head.

I've found lately that, now that I notice more about how my clothes fit, they're often a bit snug across the upper back.  Things have been fitting better now that I've started adding a little extra width.  This seems to fit OK but I suspect it, too, will be tight once I have sleeves on it, so . . . an extra inch it is:


Ordinarily, this would create a shoulder or neck dart, but here it just fades into the princess seam.

I cut and seamed the back last night and I'm working on the seam finish today at lunch.


Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Pillowcases

The plan was to spend most of the weekend sewing.  That didn't quite happen, but it didn't totally not happen, either.  We take what we can get around here.

Mom felt badly that we were using up the holly flannel pillowcases she had made to go with my Christmas quilt.  I had a lot left over from the nightgown so I made two new pillowcases out of that, to put away for later.

I went to Joann to look for the postage-stamp print flannel they have online.  They didn't have it, but they did have--are you sitting down?--David Bowie French bulldogs:


I mean--what the almighty heck is that?

On the other hand: Who cares?

I bought out the bolt.  I need a pillowcase.  And pajamas.  And to hoard the scraps like pirate's gold.  Because OMG freaking awesome.

The girl at the cutting table sadly announced over the PA that the "David Bowie Frenchies have left the building".  She said it was her favorite print in a long time.

It will be a nightshirt: McCall's 7341 (1980):



* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 

Flannel was on sale so I got an end-of-bolt of Volkswagen campers.  It's short so I need to get some solid to make contrast cuffs, but it's nice, soft, thick, flannel, it's Volkswagens, and it's cute in a sloppy, "I don't really understand midcentury design" kind of way:


This print, though, does understand midcentury design.  Huge dirndl skirt, here we come!


White blouse, black cardigan, black heeled loafers, amirite?

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 

I had to sew later:


But she finally did let me finish the Christmas pillowcase for the mini-pillow.


Cookies and bread pudding

I had a birthday party to go to on Saturday and promised to bring cookies.

We got this recipe for cornmeal cookies off of a bag of cornmeal sometime around 1994 and it quickly turned into a much-requested standby:


They're homely little things but they taste awesome.  I prefer them without raisins, but only because I don't like raisins baked into things in general.


I also hauled out the recipe for sour-cream sugar cookies that came from Mom's Amish cookbook (Recipes from Quilt Country, I think).  I forgot to get sour cream so I used one single-serve of lemon Greek yogurt plus enough plain Dannon to make one cup.  It worked fine.


The only mishap was that I forgot how much they spread--they spread a lot--and they spread over the edge of the cookie sheet, dripping onto the bottom of the oven and setting it on fire.  Doh!  Smoked sugar cookies!

I used the leftover lemon glaze from the lemon-blueberry bread on them:


These are plain little drop cookies, too, but they're a very nice texture.  Kind of fluffy.

We had a loaf of Wolferman's cranberry and citrus English muffin bread dying slowly in the fridge so I used it to re-try my bread pudding recipe.  I haven't made this in ages and sometimes recipes aren't the way you remembered them, right?


Since this was a sweet, flavored, bread, I cut the sugar back to 1/4 cup (which I think turned out to be plenty sweet), reduced the cinnamon and nutmeg by half, and added half a teaspoon of almond extract.

Not bad.  Not bad at all.  I had to bake it longer: 45 minutes, turn, 15 minutes, turn, 15 minutes.  My oven is old.  I think that's a 1 1/2-quart Pyrex.


Mispickel approved:


To-do 2015-01-20

Completed:
1) Three miniature Christmas stockings
2) Christmas pillowcase for small pillow
3) David Bowie French bulldog pillowcase
4) Holly flannel pillowcases to match Christmas quilt

Almost completed:
1) Volkswagen camper pillowcases

To-do:
1) Tablecloths: Red milk-cap print; Hallowe'en print
2) Revisit DuBarry 1943 5612 - Valentine's Day dress
3) Mardi Gras costume for Jeannie the Doll
4) Two yoked prairie dress wearable muslins:  Simplicity 9778 (1971) and one of the round-yoked patterns, probably Marian Martin 9175 (1979), using the two Joann scattered floral calicos.

To-do, longer term:
1) DuBarry 1944 5986 - St. Patrick's Day dress.  Started this awhile ago but then set it aside.
2) Pick up New York 1490 again.
3) Butterick 1983 4948 Belle France drop-waist dress in the Moda umbrella fabric.  This should be an easy project if I can just get to it.
4) T-shirt quilts
5) Endless dirndl skirts
6) New office jacket.  Elbow blew out of mine this week and it's really not presentable any more.  I've ordered the pattern I want but I need to find suitable wool.
7) David Bowie French bulldog nightshirt

Friday, January 16, 2015

To-Do List

Completed:
1) Hollywood 1944 1411 - Christmas dress
2) Butterick See N Sew 2006 B4903 - flannel nightgown

To-do:
1) Three miniature Christmas stockings
2) Christmas pillowcase for small pillow
3) Revisit DuBarry 1943 5612 - Valentine's Day dress
4) Mardi Gras costume for Jeannie the Doll
5) Two yoked prairie dress wearable muslins:  Simplicity 9778 (1971) and one of the round-yoked patterns, probably Marian Martin 9175 (1979), using the two Joann scattered floral calicos.

To-do, longer term:
1) DuBarry 1944 5986 - St. Patrick's Day dress.  Started this awhile ago but then set it aside.
2) Pick up New York 1490 again.
3) Butterick 1983 4948 Belle France drop-waist dress in the Moda umbrella fabric.  This should be an easy project if I can just get to it.
4) T-shirt quilts
5) Endless dirndl skirts
6) New office jacket.  Elbow blew out of mine this week and it's really not presentable any more.  I've ordered the pattern I want but I need to find suitable wool.

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

DuBarry 5612 (1943) Valentine Dress: Part III

Restarting this.  I found the fabric.  The test pattern did pretty well last year.  Ha, ha. 

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Butterick See & Sew 2006 B4903 Part 1

Listening: Old Crow Medicine Show, Remedy (2014).  This is as close to a full-blown old-time album as I ever expect to see in mainstream music.  It's been nominated for a folk Grammy.  I've heard grumblings that it should be in Americana (which would be fine) or bluegrass, but it's totally not bluegrass.  
I saw OCMS live years ago when they were just starting to be seen by the general population.  They were OK.  My brother liked them and I at least didn't hate them, so they were something we could listen to when we were together.  Live, they were a bunch of obnoxious little boys putting on fake accents--I guess because they were in Texas?  I don't know.  They have gotten to be so much better since then.

A cold snap blew in last night so I got motivated and started the flannel nightgown I meant to make before Christmas.


Nothing much to see here, folks.  Just a baggy yoked nightgown.


I'll probably cut it in a length in between the two shown there--the short one is a bit short, but the long one looks kind of unwieldy.  I've already reduced the sleeve circumference from 18 1/2 inches, finished, to 15 3/4, because OMG so much sleeve:


I'm doing cuffs instead of the elastic wrists-with-ruffles thing.

Holly-print flannel, which matches the back of my Christmas quilt:


And obnoxiously matchy buttons!


I'll probably do a plain neck, too, unless I find a small piece of eyelet I really want to use up.  I know I have cream-colored eyelet but I don't think I have white and I'm not in the mood to buy more just for this.

I copied the pattern last night.  Should be able to start cutting fabric tonight.  This should be a quick project that doesn't need a lot of finishing.

Monday, January 5, 2015

Happy [slightly belated] 2015

Listening: Bottle Rockets "Get Down, River".

A lot of stuff and yet nothing specifically happened over the holidays.  Nothing big.  I did finish Hollywood 1411 but not in time for Christmas, of course, so it hasn't been worn yet.  Ha.  I managed to injure my foot.  It's not serious but it's pretty gnarly-looking and the doctor gave me some ointment for it, so I spent a lot of time going shoeless.  (Healing nicely.  Still kind of gross, but much less gross than it was on Wednesday.)

I don't really do resolutions because I feel that I don't live up to enough expectations as it is, but my non-resolutions include getting out more, being more disciplined about my crafts, learning new stuff at work (I'm looking at you, encoded archival description), and playing more music.

Hey, cat--you're still on the table.  Nice try, though.


The half-circle shawl is marching right along:


Friday, December 26, 2014

Hollywood 1944 1411 Christmas dress, Part IV

I spent Christmas hanging out with a friend who was in town housesitting for his mom.  Not doing Christmas things, but that's fine.  

HEB has special edition vanilla cokes.  I haven't tried them yet because I didn't put any in the fridge right away, but their cane-sugar cokes are usually pretty good.


I needed a new sewing kit.  They now sell these in small tins, I guess for travel kits?  (This is a sewing insider joke, by the way.  We wonder why so many people have cookies in their sewing tins.)


Some horses, with an artsy-fartsy filter.  These guys don't all have names yet, I'm afraid:


I did get a little sewing done!  Wednesday, I got motivated and knocked out a fly for the skirt of the dress (this is turning out to be a "Christmas dress" in the sense that I worked on it during winter holidays.  Whatever.  I'm OK with that).

I did this exactly the same way I'd do a placket, except with an extra flap on the right-hand side of the dress for the buttons (the outer flap will cover and hide them):


The interior and exterior flaps:


Mispickel helpd:


The flaps set (the outer flap is pinned open so I could do the buttonholes.


With the ends turned inward so I could sew them down.


The fly from the outside:


The dress with the skirt attached.  I haven't finished the lining of the inset belt yet.  (Actually, as I type this I realize I forgot to put interfacing in it, so I guess I'll be hand-finishing skirt seams today at lunch instead of doing the belt lining.  Oops.)