Simplicity 2015 1080 Dottie Angel long dress pattern hack

I've made this a bunch of times so this was a pretty quick weekend project.  The fabric I used here is Cloud 9 Cirrus organic cotton in Iris, which is a shot-weave purple/magenta.  It's a bit like homespun but tighter.

So . . . back to 1080


As a side note: I made some alterations to this already, but you don't need to do that to lengthen it.

I changed the sleeves to make them easier to bias-bind:

 . . . and did an FBA:


But you can do this with the stock pattern pieces.

I didn't even retrace the pieces.  I just laid them on the fabric and used my clear ruler to measure down from the hemline and out from the waist point, and drew that on with a tailor's pencil.  I added 14" of length (I'm 5'7"), which allowed for a bout 1" of foldover at the bottom to attach a bias hem facing.  This was solidly full-length.

I made this as wide as the fabric width would permit.  For the back piece, I wanted to distribute the added sweep to the back as well as the sides, so I laid the pattern piece in the middle of the folded fabric and sketched in a seam allowance in addition to the skirt flare and additional length.

When I make this, I sew tucks into the back to keep the bulk of the dress from shifting forward as I walk, but if you don't have this problem, don't worry about it:


 I used the rest of the fabric to make a self waist tie (just a long tube) but I like it better with the belt:



Comments

Mrs Rat said…
I like your version better than the original! It's interesting to see how you modified the pattern and really made it your own.
The pattern pieces of the original are identical front and back, with front tucks and a back waist tie. It's adorable in the illustration but apparently only fits a certain body type. And the neckline is huge. I raised the neckline a lot, especially in the back, and fiddled around a lot with the shaping. It fits great . . . now that it's a completely different pattern. Oh, well.
Sylvia's Closet said…
I've made Simplicity 1080 twice and also found modifications were needed. On the first dress, the bust was tight, so I let out one of the two tucks on either side. I also found the tucks were too high so they fell on my bust area instead of underneath. For the second dress, I widened the top a couple of inches at the bust and moved the tucks and tie down 2 inches. Instead of turning the armhole under to the line on the shoulder seam to create the small cap-type sleeve, I made a pleat at the line instead. This pleat also created a little more bust space and looks like it should be there.

I suppose the point of all the bias tape is to keep the dress smooth, but it is a bit tedious basting and removing all the basting. I may try using a French seam at the waist/fabric change line in addition to the side seams for the next one.