Listening: Ray Wylie Hubbard
This pattern is chaos.
I've made it before, with some rather drastic alterations, and it worked, but a) I did some things wrong, b) I don't want to recreate that style this time, and c) it could still fit better.
I've managed to mess up a whole series of attempted alterations so far.
The deal is, I have no-wider-than-average shoulders + a very broad upper back + slightly broad back at the underarms. This means I have to figure out how to broaden the upper back a lot without messing up the shoulders or creating a lot of extra fabric under the arms (down the side seams).
So . . . the back bodice piece:
Note that this uses a rather sharply drawn-in side seam instead of darts for the little waist shaping it has.
Broad back #1: I've tried this once or twice in a pinch but don't like it because it doesn't create a neck dart, and I find that fit is a whole lot better with even a small neck dart:
Broad back #2: I usually use this, but this carries the risk of creating underarm weirdness and maybe some fit issues. (Dart is not configured accurately here, just FYI. It's only a sketch):
Broad back #3: I'm not really seeing this online. The excerpts from Sandra Betzina's work don't take the waist back in, although I guess they could easily enough. But I think I'm more comfortable with the distribution of the waist shaping that this does by creating darts.
This pattern is chaos.
I've made it before, with some rather drastic alterations, and it worked, but a) I did some things wrong, b) I don't want to recreate that style this time, and c) it could still fit better.
I've managed to mess up a whole series of attempted alterations so far.
The deal is, I have no-wider-than-average shoulders + a very broad upper back + slightly broad back at the underarms. This means I have to figure out how to broaden the upper back a lot without messing up the shoulders or creating a lot of extra fabric under the arms (down the side seams).
So . . . the back bodice piece:
Broad back #1: I've tried this once or twice in a pinch but don't like it because it doesn't create a neck dart, and I find that fit is a whole lot better with even a small neck dart:
Broad back #2: I usually use this, but this carries the risk of creating underarm weirdness and maybe some fit issues. (Dart is not configured accurately here, just FYI. It's only a sketch):
Broad back #3: I'm not really seeing this online. The excerpts from Sandra Betzina's work don't take the waist back in, although I guess they could easily enough. But I think I'm more comfortable with the distribution of the waist shaping that this does by creating darts.
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