Bernat Handknit Classics is an interesting and practical, if slightly awkward book, in that it simultaneously charts two yarn-gauge groups (one basically sport-weight and one baby-weight, as far as I can tell from the recommended needle sizes and stitch gauges), in sizes for children, women, and men, in a way that allows the knitter to combine features to get just the plain sweater she wants. You can choose a pullover or cardigan with long, short, or no sleeves, add a crew or V-neck, and then knit for your niece, yourself, or your grandpa, all in a few pages. It's basically modular knitting.
(OK, I think this is interesting. It might be totally common or have become hopelessly passé since it's a little unwieldy, but it's cool now that I've figured it out. I don't read very many knitting books. I'm totally out of the loop.)
The sweaters are no-frills, which is exactly what I wanted. I'm a utilitarian knitter, not an ambitious one. I have too many interests and hobbies already; I'm doing this only secondarily because I want to know how. I'm mostly here because I'm cold and I can't get good sweaters. My taste in sweaters, though, is pretty no-nonsense.
(OK, I think this is interesting. It might be totally common or have become hopelessly passé since it's a little unwieldy, but it's cool now that I've figured it out. I don't read very many knitting books. I'm totally out of the loop.)
The sweaters are no-frills, which is exactly what I wanted. I'm a utilitarian knitter, not an ambitious one. I have too many interests and hobbies already; I'm doing this only secondarily because I want to know how. I'm mostly here because I'm cold and I can't get good sweaters. My taste in sweaters, though, is pretty no-nonsense.
The original for the sleeveless V-neck pullover that I want goes like this:Needles: US 2, US 4, US 2 double-points (I'm using US 4 and US 6 circulars)
Gauge: 6 stitches per inch (this would be roughly sport weight. I'm using worsted, although my horizontal gauge is about the same[???]. My row gauge is 7 per inch instead of 9, which won't matter much until I get to the armscyes. I'll have to adjust those so I move horizontally within the adjusted number of rows for armscye height.)
Size: 18 (Bust 36. Sizing was different then. I'm used to this, though, since it also applies to sewing patterns. I'm actually a dress size 16 but I'm going up a size so this can be worn easily over other clothes.)
Back:
Cast on 108 stitches on smaller needles. Work in K1, P1 (I'm doing K2, P2) rib for 3 inches. Change to larger needles and continue in stockinette stitch for 12" (15" total. I might shorten this a bit so it fits nicely over a dress with a waistline).
Armscye: Bind off 6 stitches a beginnings of next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every other row, 10 times. Work on remaining 76 stitches until the armhole is 8 1/2 inches (I might make this 1/2-inch or an inch longer).
Shoulders: Bind off 8 stitches at beginning of next 6 rows (3 times each side). Leave 28 stitches on a holder, for the neck.
Front:
Cast 120 stitches on smaller needles. Work as for back up to armscyes.
Divide work in half. (Place marker? Place half the stitches on a holder and come back to them? Does it matter?)
When armscyes measure 1 1/2 inches, attach a second yarn. Shape armscyes as for back, and at the same time shape neck:
Decrease 1 stitch every other row, 6 times, then . . .Work even until armscye is the same length as for the back. Shape shoulders as for the back.
Decrease 1 stitch every 3rd row until there are 24 stitches left.
(Presumably you seam the sides and shoulders somewhere in here.)
Neckband: On small double-points, pick up 144 stitches including the stitches on the holder. Place marker at center front of V. Knit in rib, decreasing 1 stitch on each side of marker, every other round, until band is 1 inch.
Armbands: On small double-points with right-side facing, pick up 144 stitches. Work in ribbing until band is 1 inch.
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