Butterick 5187-B: Grunge Remix: Part IV

So, I tried the Sew Store-Bought "How to Draft a Sleeve Pattern when You Are Desperate and No One Has Ever Shown You" method last night.

Oddly, the sleeve eventually fit perfectly between the notches but came out 3/4 inch short overall. I've been striking out in the "constructing pattern pieces from other pattern pieces" department lately, but since I'm always off by a measured amount--3/4 inch, half-inch--instead of some random, uneven, amount, I'm assuming that it's seamstress error and things will right themselves when I start paying more careful attention to what I'm doing. I mean, I feel like I'm paying attention, but this would definitely not be the first time in my life that I thought I had a handle on things and didn't.

The first attempt came out very short, and I realized I had not accounted for the seam allowance on the inside of the curve, which made the curve smaller and the overall armscye length shorter. So, on the second go-round, I took out 5/8 inch all the way around, which got me closer. I was still that 3/4 inch short, though. I'm not sure what's up with that but my next idea is to trace the pattern along the seam line and then add the seam allowance back all over, both in the armscye and down the underarm seam of the sleeve. The practice sleeve fit fine between the notches but was short between the notches and the seam (the underarm part, or the ends of the "bell curve" when the sleeve piece hasn't been sewn up yet and is still lying flat).

I'll let y'all know how it goes.