Simplicity 1996 9880

Listening: Ray Wylie Hubbard

This pattern is chaos.

I've made it before, with some rather drastic alterations, and it worked, but a) I did some things wrong, b) I don't want to recreate that style this time, and c) it could still fit better.

I've managed to mess up a whole series of attempted alterations so far.

The deal is, I have no-wider-than-average shoulders + a very broad upper back + slightly broad back at the underarms.  This means I have to figure out how to broaden the upper back a lot without messing up the shoulders or creating a lot of extra fabric under the arms (down the side seams).

So . . . the back bodice piece:

Note that this uses a rather sharply drawn-in side seam instead of darts for the little waist shaping it has.
Broad back #1: I've tried this once or twice in a pinch but don't like it because it doesn't create a neck dart, and I find that fit is a whole lot better with even a small neck dart:

Broad back #2: I usually use this, but this carries the risk of creating underarm weirdness and maybe some fit issues.  (Dart is not configured accurately here, just FYI.  It's only a sketch):

Broad back #3: I'm not really seeing this online.  The excerpts from Sandra Betzina's work don't take the waist back in, although I guess they could easily enough.  But I think I'm more comfortable with the distribution of the waist shaping that this does by creating darts.