So, I got this far in and then realized I wished I had done some things differently. I considered just working with it, but then . . . nah. Not with this expensive yarn. So I frogged it and edited the chart.
I didn't like how the knit-2-togethers were making the rows of eyelets asymmetrical, I wished I had done an extra row on the border, I should have cast one with a larger needle, and some other stuff.
I found one more skein on eBay for $5 (a BARGAIN), which is good because the smaller gauge is going to take more yardage than I originally expected and I was starting to be afraid I'd have to skimp on either width or length, which I really don't want to do with this project.
Written:
I cast on 159 stitches on US7's and worked:
Row 1: Knit 1, *yarn-over, knit 2 together*
Row 2: Knit all
For 26 rows.
Continue this along the sides in the same pattern, so the border along the sides was:
RS Right border: Knit 1, (yarn-over, knit 2 together) x 8 = 17 stitches. Place marker (not absolutely necessary but easier than having to keep track of where your borders start and end each time)
[work pattern here]
RS left border: Knit to last 17 stitches, then place marker, then knit 1, (yarn-over, knit 2 together) x 8
Wrong side/all odd rows: Knit all border stitches on each side.
Pattern:
RS: Purl 3, purl front and back, yarn forward/slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, yarn over, knit 2 together, yarn over, slip 1, knit 1, PSSO, purl 4, transfer 1 to cable holder, purl 1, knit stitch from cable holder,
WR: Knit 5, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 5, purl 1
Repeat until you get to the border stitches. It's OK if the pattern doesn't fit evenly into the stitch count--just end where it runs out. If it ends with one stitch where you needed either a K2tog or a YO, just purl that stitch and then go on to the border. Make sure you don't accidentally add or remove stitches at the edges.
Move the pattern over one pattern stitch to the left each RS row. If the start or end point of the pattern asks for a K2tog, just knit 1 and omit the corresponding increase. Watch your increases and decreases so you don't mess up your stitch count.
I found one more skein on eBay for $5 (a BARGAIN), which is good because the smaller gauge is going to take more yardage than I originally expected and I was starting to be afraid I'd have to skimp on either width or length, which I really don't want to do with this project.
Written:
I cast on 159 stitches on US7's and worked:
Row 1: Knit 1, *yarn-over, knit 2 together*
Row 2: Knit all
For 26 rows.
Continue this along the sides in the same pattern, so the border along the sides was:
RS Right border: Knit 1, (yarn-over, knit 2 together) x 8 = 17 stitches. Place marker (not absolutely necessary but easier than having to keep track of where your borders start and end each time)
[work pattern here]
RS left border: Knit to last 17 stitches, then place marker, then knit 1, (yarn-over, knit 2 together) x 8
Wrong side/all odd rows: Knit all border stitches on each side.
Pattern:
RS: Purl 3, purl front and back, yarn forward/slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, yarn over, knit 2 together, yarn over, slip 1, knit 1, PSSO, purl 4, transfer 1 to cable holder, purl 1, knit stitch from cable holder,
WR: Knit 5, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 5, purl 1
Repeat until you get to the border stitches. It's OK if the pattern doesn't fit evenly into the stitch count--just end where it runs out. If it ends with one stitch where you needed either a K2tog or a YO, just purl that stitch and then go on to the border. Make sure you don't accidentally add or remove stitches at the edges.
Move the pattern over one pattern stitch to the left each RS row. If the start or end point of the pattern asks for a K2tog, just knit 1 and omit the corresponding increase. Watch your increases and decreases so you don't mess up your stitch count.
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